Part 1: A Culinary Shift at Laghi’s
Laghi’s, a Birmingham-based deli, underwent a significant transformation in late 2023. Initially spearheaded by MasterChef 2019 winner Stu Deeley as executive chef, the establishment aimed for a fine-dining experience. Deeley’s innovative dishes, while critically acclaimed, came with a hefty price tag of around £50 per person. Owner Luca Laghi acknowledges the success of this approach from a culinary perspective, yet admits it lacked a unique selling point within the competitive Birmingham food scene. While customers appreciated the elevated dining experience, the high prices proved unsustainable in the long run. The increased costs associated with hiring a high-profile chef like Deeley inevitably led to higher menu prices, alienating some of Laghi’s loyal customer base.
Part 2: Back to Basics with Angela’s Trattoria
Recognizing the need for a change, Laghi, encouraged by his mother and partner, decided to revamp the restaurant. The result was Angela’s Trattoria, a more casual and affordable Italian eatery named after his mother. This new iteration shifted the focus back to traditional Italian cuisine, with a significant reduction in prices. Diners can now enjoy a meal for around £25 per person, with pasta dishes starting at a more accessible £9. The menu features classic Italian desserts, such as artisanal gelato and Sicilian cannoli, further emphasizing the return to simpler, more traditional fare. This transition back to basics proved a successful formula, with Angela’s Trattoria thriving since its reopening in September 2023.
Part 3: Stu Deeley’s Journey Beyond Laghi’s
Following his stint at Laghi’s, Stu Deeley continued to make his mark on the culinary world. He opened Smoke, a highly acclaimed restaurant at Hampton Manor in Birmingham. Smoke garnered significant recognition, earning three AA rosettes and a coveted Michelin Guide recommendation. However, after a successful three-year run, Deeley announced his departure from Smoke in early 2025, citing personal reasons, including the anticipation of his third child.
Part 4: Hampton Manor’s Culinary Evolution
Hampton Manor, the estate housing Deeley’s Smoke restaurant, wasted no time in announcing its future culinary plans. Following Smoke’s closure in February 2025, the estate revealed the launch of Kynd, a new restaurant concept under the direction of Michelin-starred chef David Taylor. Kynd promised a focus on produce-driven, comforting dishes rooted in heritage and flavor. This transition marked another chapter in Hampton Manor’s culinary journey, showcasing the estate’s commitment to evolving and offering diverse dining experiences.
Part 5: Contrasting Culinary Philosophies
The divergent paths of Laghi’s and Stu Deeley highlight contrasting approaches to the restaurant business. Laghi’s initial venture with Deeley, while showcasing high-quality cuisine, ultimately proved unsustainable due to pricing and market demand. The return to a more traditional, affordable trattoria concept proved successful, resonating with a broader customer base. Deeley’s pursuit of culinary excellence at Smoke, while achieving critical acclaim, eventually led to a transition as he prioritized personal and family commitments. These parallel stories underscore the delicate balance between culinary ambition, market realities, and personal choices within the ever-evolving restaurant landscape.
Part 6: The Cycle of Culinary Change
The story of Laghi’s, Stu Deeley, and Hampton Manor illustrates the dynamic nature of the culinary world. Restaurants constantly adapt to market trends, economic pressures, and the evolving visions of chefs and owners. Laghi’s shift from fine dining back to traditional fare demonstrates the importance of understanding customer needs and market demands. Deeley’s journey reflects the personal considerations that often shape a chef’s career trajectory. Hampton Manor’s transition to a new restaurant concept highlights the ongoing evolution within the hospitality industry, constantly seeking to innovate and offer fresh experiences to diners. These interwoven narratives underscore the cyclical nature of culinary change, where innovation, adaptation, and personal choices continually reshape the dining landscape.
