Foula: An Island Out of Time
The flurry of Christmas preparations sweeping across most of the United Kingdom in late December goes unnoticed on the remote island of Foula, part of the Shetland archipelago north of mainland Scotland. This isolated community of approximately 30 inhabitants adheres to a different temporal rhythm, celebrating Christmas and New Year according to the Julian calendar, a system predating the Gregorian calendar commonly used in the rest of the world. While mainland Britain welcomes the New Year on January 1st, Foula’s residents look forward to their festivities on January 6th for Christmas and January 12th for New Year, maintaining a centuries-old tradition that connects them to their Norse heritage.
Foula’s unique adherence to the Julian calendar is a testament to its historical isolation and the preservation of cultural practices. The islanders, known for their strong Norse traditions, including folklore, music, and distinctive festivities, are descendants of a people who once spoke Norn, a form of Old Norse that vanished around 1800. This linguistic lineage underscores the enduring connection to their ancestral past. Their continued observance of the Julian calendar is not merely an act of clinging to the old, but a conscious decision to uphold a tradition that holds profound significance for their identity. As one islander aptly put it, they haven’t changed; the rest of the world did. They see themselves as part of a broader historical continuum, sharing this calendar with other communities globally, particularly in regions of Russia, which reinforces their sense of belonging to a larger, albeit dispersed, cultural group.
The difference in calendars stems from a significant historical shift. The Gregorian calendar, implemented by Pope Gregory XIII in 1582, addressed inaccuracies in the Julian calendar’s calculation of the solar year. While Great Britain adopted the Gregorian calendar in 1752, Foula remained steadfast in its observance of the Julian calendar, a decision reflecting the island’s physical and cultural distance from mainland influences. This adherence stands in stark contrast even to some historically Julian calendar-observing communities, such as Ukrainian Orthodox Christians, who opted to celebrate Christmas on December 25th in line with the Gregorian calendar. This underscores Foula’s resolute commitment to its traditions.
Foula’s isolation is not merely cultural but deeply geographical. Located 16 miles west of mainland Shetland and 100 miles north of mainland Scotland, the island’s remote location has historically limited its access to modern amenities. Running water only arrived in 1982, and full electricity, supplied by a diesel generator, followed in 1984. Currently, a renewable energy system, primarily photovoltaic, supplemented by diesel, powers the island. This delayed arrival of basic infrastructure highlights the challenges posed by Foula’s remoteness and underscores the islanders’ resilience and self-sufficiency. The island’s name itself, derived from Old Norse, translates to "bird island," reflecting its abundant bird life and its disconnectedness from the human-dominated mainland.
The island’s physical remoteness and susceptibility to harsh weather conditions further accentuate its isolation. Anecdotes, such as the repeated failed attempts of a Church of Scotland minister to reach Foula for a Christmas service, illustrate the logistical difficulties of accessing the island, especially during inclement weather. This isolation has also fostered a unique community spirit. Christmas celebrations on Foula traditionally involve the entire community gathering in a single house, exchanging gifts and greetings. This intimate communal celebration reinforces social bonds and reflects a shared cultural identity forged in the crucible of geographic isolation.
Foula’s unique history and culture have also drawn attention from the outside world. The island served as the setting for the film "The Edge of the World," and its proximity to the Shaalds of Foula, the site of the RMS Oceanic shipwreck, adds a layer of maritime history to its narrative. These connections to the wider world, however tenuous, serve to remind us of the island’s existence and the unique community that calls it home. Foula’s story offers a compelling glimpse into a community that chooses to live outside the dominant temporal and cultural frameworks, clinging to a heritage that defines its identity and distinguishes it from the fast-paced, ever-changing world beyond its shores. It’s a testament to the enduring power of tradition and the resilience of small communities in preserving their unique cultural heritage in the face of external pressures.
